It’s no secret that fresh, radiant, & dewy skin is all the rage right now. Having your ‘highlight shine brighter than your future’ is proving to be a questionable, yet prevalent, goal. However, there’s no denying that a TRUE glowing base seems to never last. On an oily skin, it will slide off the face quicker than you can scream “SETTING SPRAY”; and for my dry-skin readers, I know your skin just drinks it up or turns it matte on application.
Now, we aren’t talking the type of glow where it’s really just heavy matte foundation with a truckload of highlighter. No, we’re talking about a refreshing radiance that will make people ask what moisturiser you’re using to achieve this wizardry. So, how do we do it? Keep reading and be sure to note certain differences for your skin type.
To achieve glowing skin, it certainly helps to have healthy and radiant skin beneath your foundation. Exfoliating regularly helps to rid dead skin cells and encourage cell turnover, where new cells generated in the dermis replace dead skin cells in the epidermis. Therefore, by buffing away the dead skin cells, we reveal brighter and fresher skin, to which makeup applies seamlessly.
Further, exfoliation can assist in the minimisation of blemishes, like acne scarring and dark spots. By improving skin’s clarity, less coverage is required. Foundations that are more sheer in coverage, generally look more natural and radiant due to lower quantities of pigment in the formula that can tend to make foundations more drying.
Your choice of a physical or chemical exfoliant is up to you, and your frequency of use will be dependent on the strength of the product. If you choose a chemical exfoliant, try to avoid bad alcohols that will break down your skin’s protective layer, which will compromise your skin’s ability to retain moisture (e.g. ethanol, isopropyl alcohol, Benzyl Alcohol). However, it’s important not to discount all alcohols, some can act as emollients which protect the skin (e.g. Cetearyl, Stearyl, Cetyl and Behenyl alcohol). We love the Dr. Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Pads, and the Kate Somerville ‘Exfolikate’.
If you choose a physical exfoliant, ensure you opt for one that is finely milled. Anything with exfoliating beads or granules too large can cause micro-tears in the skin. At Sienna Lashes we love the Tatcha Rice Polish, or the Goldfaden MD Doctor’s Scrub.
MOISTURISE ACCORDING TO YOUR SKIN TYPE
Your skin type should dictate whatever moisturiser you use under makeup. Did we mention? Definitely make sure you’re always moisturising BEFORE makeup application. ALWAYS. No question. The reason is primarily due to your skin’s hydration levels. Think of your skin as a sponge. Once a sponge is saturated, it’s not going to try and drink any more water, right? Same thing goes - if you’ve quenched your skin before makeup application, it’s not going to try and drink up any other liquids you put on after, including your foundation. Ever hear people say their foundation is going patchy?
It’s finally making sense, isn’t it….?
And before you tell me that your skin is already oily, I’m going to jump in first and tell you that doesn’t matter. Hydration and oil are different. Hydration is water, and 98% of people in Australia suffer from dehydrated skin. This risk will be heightened by approximately 47362%* if you work in air-conditioning.
*not a real statistic
SO, if you’re concerned with oily skin, and don’t want a ‘dewy makeup look’ to turn into “I actually just did a 2-hour bikram yoga session”, then use a light weight hydrating moisturiser, oil-free if you think your case is extreme. Also, allow it to absorb before applying your primers and moisturisers. We love the Skyn Iceland Pure Cloud Cream if you want lightness with a touch of oil, or the Dr. Dennis Gross Hyaluronic Moisture Cushion for oil-free.
If you’re dry, your skin is going to need oil to maintain a dewy look. And yes, I know that if your foundation is water based it could then split and blah, blah, blah. Odds are, if your foundation is water based, it probably still has some oils in its formula unless it states oil-free (which you typically wouldn’t be using for a dewy look anyway). Further, just let these oils absorb before makeup application. At Sienna Lashes, we love the Drunk Elephant Lala Retro Whipped Cream, or the Ren Emollient rescue cream if you’re super dry.
APPLY A HIGHLIGHTING BALM BENEATH THE FOUNDATION
A pretty well known, but worth mentioning, tip – use balm/cream highlighters. Whether this be on the high points of your face before and/or after applying liquid foundation (shoutout to my RMS living luminiser), or an actual liquid illuminator mixed in with your foundation (Nars Copacabana, that you?), this will drastically enhance the dewiness of your skin without having to sacrifice your favourite foundation that you know will wear all day.
So, I know there’s not much point telling people which foundations to use, because really, everyone is SO different with their preferences and how things will sit on their skin. I would argue, you can make almost any foundation appear dewy if you take the right steps. And when I say almost any, please please please avoid full coverage MATTE foundations – these guys are stubborn. If you want full coverage, that’s ok, but try something more natural in finish – like Too Faced Born This Way, or Nars Natural Radiant Longwear. And fear not, I’m still going to let you set it, just wait for the next step ;).
For my dry-skins, go crazy with the dew. Avoid oil-free foundations and preferably opt for ones with an oil-base like the Josie Maran Vibrancy, or the Bobbi Brown Glow Foundation. If oil-based isn’t your vibe, go for something more hydrating like the Tarte Rainforest Of The Sea Water Foundation.
POWDERS ARE OK – BUT WHICH ONES?
Now, being oily in areas myself, telling an oily-skinned gal she can’t use powders will probably crush her soul. So, I’m here to say you can, but sparingly. I’m also going to propose 2 types to use! Blasphemy right?? Dry skins, you can do this step too, but if you feel you don’t need it – feel free to skip.
Translucent powders are what will stop your foundation from transferring. They are important if you’re oily, however it’s all too common for the tiniest brush of any translucent powder to completely mattify all of your hard work. So, opt for a translucent powder that is more hydrating – yes, it’s a thing. We love the Too Faced Born This Way Powder, the Hourglass Veil Powder and if you’re super chic, the By Terry Hyaluronic Hydra-Powder. Set under your eyes as you normally would, beyond under eyes being stupidly creased at the best of times, I also don’t think you’d want them to be dewy. But, with your translucent powder for the rest of the face, take a SPARSE brush (if I see any kabuki’s, I’m coming for you), and VERY LIGHTLY dust it over the skin, giving more attention to oily areas like the T-zone. Remember, this isn’t Instagram glam, and despite popular belief you actually don’t have to soak a translucent powder into your skin for the approximate time it takes to do your eyebrows…
Now, finishing powders… and no, they are not the same thing. Finishing powders are designed to add a given effect to the skin, and really won’t help too much with setting. But, they are a way of bringing some dew BACK if your translucent has taken away some glow. We love to use the Hourglass Ambient Lighting Powder in Luminous Light on the outer perimeters of the face. Once this settles, it gives a glorious glow… with powder – crazy right.
HIGHLIGHTING POWDER ON WET SKIN
Now, I don’t have to tell you that powder highlight will be essential, but not the kind where it’s chunky glitter. Rather, opt for sheeny option like Mac Soft & Gentle. This will help with a beautiful radiance that doesn’t look as heavy. Our top tip is to use a buffing brush (like the Zoeva 105/Luxe Highlight) because it really works it into the skin, as opposed to just sitting it on top.
But, it gets better. If you really want your highlight to achieve that insane dew, spritz your face OR brush before application with something like Mac Fix + or even a fine mist of water if your collection is smaller. You’ll be amazed the difference this will make.
SETTING SPRAY OR FINISHING SPRAY?
Again, they are different. A setting spray essentially creates a layer over the makeup to stop transfer or movement, and they really can be our best friends (UD, we see you). These can be a great tool to avoid using as much powder but still maintain longevity.
However, a finishing spray can also help to achieve the fresh skin in the first place. A finishing spray will condense the layers of the makeup to give a more ‘skin-like’ effect. If, by the end of your foundation regime, you find it sometimes looking cakey or heavy, this is the product for you. It will revive the skin to a new level of freshness. At Sienna Lashes we love the Tatcha Luminous Dewy Skin Mist or Mac Fix +.
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So, there you have it. Your BIBLE for dewy skin, regardless of your skin type. If you learnt anything or have any comments/questions, we encourage you to leave them below in the comments!
Keep winking x